Frozen Photon Camera Co.

Small-batch and Print-Your-Own cameras.

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KRAKEN 612

BUILDING YOUR CAMERA

Notes for printing.

I am not an expert on 3D printing. I use a consumer-grade Creality Ender 3 printer, the Cura slicer, and eSun PLA Pro filament and if you have the same setup I can provide gcode for each of the print batches (more than one part printed at a time is a batch).

  • In the zipped package of files you get when you purchase the Kraken 612 from my Etsy store are coded with either “color” or “black” in their names. 
  • The color items can be printed in any color, even transparent or glow-in-the-dark filament. 
  • The black parts really need to be black because they keep the light out. If you would like to experiment with printing the body and lens cone in other colors and finding another way of light-proofing the interior of the camera, I would love to hear about your experiments. 
  • Both the inside and the outside door parts must be black to keep the door light-tight.
  • .stl files contained in the zipped package of files are rotated so they sit as they should on the printing surface. Additional rotations to make more items fit on a build plate will result in parts printing improperly. 
  • Some parts need supports. Your slicer should automatically add supports as needed if you have “Generate Support” checked in the Cura slicer application or similar wording in another slicer you should be fine. 

 

If this is your first time printing with a 3D printer, print small pieces (04_black_AdvanceShaft_Left.stl or 11_color_FilmInsertLeft.stl) first to get the hang of how your printer works.  Also, follow the setup instructions for your printer as the bed needs to be leveled before you begin. 

It’s time to build your Kraken 612.

I’ve prepared a real-time video that is about and hour and 15 minutes long. I would expect, since it’s your first time putting one together, alloting twice that time should be about right.

Before you begin, there are a few things you need to do. First off, you need to paint the inside of the body and the lens cone with matte black paint to reduce the bouncing of the light on the inside of the camera. This will avoid “hots spots” on your negatives that will look like light leaks.

Here’s a quick video about painting the parts:

 

Required Parts

An M65 to M65 helical (helicoid). This camera is designed for use with the 17mm-31mm travel helicoid. Get one here. They are also available elsewhere. I buy mine from AliExpress but they take a month or so to show up. Plan a bit ahead on this part. 

Hex bolts (also called Cap Screws all sizes are metric):

4 pieces 4mm by 12mm
6 pieces 3mm by 12mm
2 pieces 3mm by 20mm
1 pieces 3mm by 8mm
4 pieces 5mm by 8mm

Glue: Either super glue or Scotch Maximum Strength Adhesive.

Paper tape (masking tape or gaffer’s tape). 

 

Tools

A set of Allen keys or hex wrenches. You can use a screwdriver with a hex bit. 

Snap-off knife, X-Acto, box cutter or some other sharp blade. 

Scissors. I like titanium-bladed scissors. 

Sandpaper. Fine grit if you have it. 

Frosted tape like Scotch tape or frosted cello-tape. Or, you can use frosted plexiglass (perspex). Either the tape or the frosted plexi will work, the plexi is just a bit nicer. 

Pliars of any sort. 

 

Optional Accessories

An optical viewfinder that matches the angle of view of your lens. A glassless viewfinder is included in the the printing files. 

A shoe-mounted rangefinder is nice. You can also set up the camera for (guess) zone focusing that works pretty well. 

A shoe-mounted light meter can come in handy. If you’re good with the Sunny-16 rule, or you have another light meter, there’s no need to fret over a light meter. You can always use an app on your smart phone. 

Camera strap. No one likes to hear the sound of a lens smashing on a rock. 

A shoe-mounted bubble level. Photos taken off-kilter with this type of wide aspect ratio are easy to spot. The level helps. 

While you can print the camera in many different colors (as long as the body and lens cone are black), there’s no reason why you can’t also paint it using plastic-friendly paint. I used Rustoleum 2X to give this version of the Kraken 612 a Gulf Racing paint scheme. 

The Video:

Copyright 2020 by Graham Young, all rights reserved | Designed by Graham Young